Welcome to the Clay & Glass blog of Meagan Chaney Gumpert! We hope you enjoy your time here!
Thursday, September 27, 2012

Opening Reception - Art in the Modern World (Gainesville, FL)

I'm excited to be a part of Art in the Modern World: A Juried Exhibition of Contemporary Work at the Doris Bardon Community Cultural Center in Gainesville, FL. Three of my sculptures were selected, and one even made the show card. Whoohoo.

The Opening Reception is tomorrow night, Friday, September 28 from 7-10pm with awards announced at 8:30. If you're in the area, stop by for me! Wish I could be there, but I'll be at home with my 3-week old bundle of joy!


Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Monday, September 17, 2012

Our New Addition

I'm happy to announce that Fletcher Elliot was born Thursday, September 6 at 9:23 am weighing 6lbs 11oz and 20" long. We had another wonderful, natural birth. Hooray!
 We are all doing well and are settling into life as a family of four. Even Big Brother Cooper
Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Friday, September 07, 2012

Low Fire Friday - Amaco Velvet Underglazes

During the Arrowmont Residency Reunion this past May, we (the 50 former Resident Artists that attended) were encouraged to collaborate on various projects that would be donated to Arrowmont for display, auction, or the permanent collection.

In the ceramic studio we tackled making 100+ mugs that would be left in the dining hall for student use during the course of Arrowmont's one-week workshops. Most of the mugs that resulted from this exciting project were touched by multiple hands. Someone would throw/trim the mug, someone else would add a handle, then it would get passed along for decoration/surface design. After it was bisque fired, someone else would apply the final glaze and then it was off to get fired again.

During the course of this process, I found myself as a "decorator" and discovered a new obsession - Amaco Velvet Underglazes!

Here is the finished Arrowmont Official Birthday Mug. I wish I could report who made the mug and who added the handle, but Brian Hiveley did the carving and illustration and I worked on the underglazes.


The underglazes were applied to greenware. After bisque firing, a black mason stain wash was applied and then a clear glaze was applied over the entire surface.

Look at the amazing color range available from Amaco!

The color palette in my work has been getting brighter and brighter over the years. (Possibly coinciding with living in Florida?) And I'm now finding that these underglazes are just what I was looking for to add that extra pop of color and still allow me to get a smooth gradation I've been wanting.

, earthenware and kiln cast glass, 16" x 13" x 7"

The piece above had 2 coats of Amaco's Hunter Green, Blue Green, Teal Blue, Royal Blue, and Purple mixed and blended on greenware and then fired to cone 04.

I doubt I've given up my crunchy, crawly glazes, but this new direction excites me! And for those reading who may not be into mixing their own glazes, I thought it would be helpful to know some great commercial glaze options.

Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Friday, August 24, 2012

Low Fire Friday: Bonus Edition - Reader Results with Crawl

I recently received an exciting email from a reader who has been working with the Low Fire Crawl glaze I featured in January's Low Fire Friday segment.

Rand O'Brien from New Hampshire writes:

"I have been using your Magnesium crawl in raku with wonderful results. The spaces between the beads seal against carboning and the beads "stick" very well. Your dark Turquoise develops a beautiful luster in reduction."

image image

How exciting! It wouldn't have occurred to me to try this same glaze with a different firing method, but Rand is getting beautiful results! Kudos to you!

Here's a re-posting of the Low Fire Crawl recipe Rand is referring too:

Crawl Glaze - Cone 04

Gerstley Borate            46.5
Magnesuim Carbonate 31.0
EPK                            18.6
Borax                            3.9
+ Zircopax                     5.5

For color add...

Beige/pale yellow: + red iron oxide 1% Dark turquoise/jade: + copper carbonate 5% Light turquoise/jade: + copper carbonate 1%
To see glaze test tiles of this recipe fired to cone 04 check out the original LFF post

Rand, Thank you so much for sharing your results! That luster halo with the turquoise is amazing!

If anyone else has tried any of the Low Fire Friday glazes and would like to share how they've worked for you, email me at and I'll be happy to put together a Bonus Edition featuring your work.


Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Friday, August 03, 2012

Low Fire Friday - A brief into to glazes and glaze mixing

Glaze – A Brief Intro
A glaze is glassy substance that has been adhered to the surface of ceramics through firing. It is made up of a glass former, a stabilizer and a flux


The glass former is the glass. Typically this will be in the form of silica/flint

The stabilizer is what keeps the glass from completely running off of the ceramic piece. Alumina is the main stabilizer and is found in clay.

The flux is an oxide (generally Alkaline) which causes ceramic fusion when combined with other oxides and heated.

Glaze recipes are usually written as a list with ingredients totaling 100%. This base glaze is usually clear/white. Any colorants, opacifiers, suspenders, and gums are written below the 100% line and are added as a percentage of the total glaze.

Base 4 
Base Glaze Frit 3195 65

Gerstly Borate 10

Wollastonite 15

EPK 10


Bentonite 2


Dark Brown Red Iron Oxide 10

Glazes are usually measured and mixed by weight. However, any unit of weight can be used as long as it is constant throughout the entire recipe. I weigh my materials out in grams and typically mix a 500g batch (about the size of a large yogurt container). This means that I would multiply each material the recipe by 5. 

So, I would actually be measuring and mixing the above recipe like this…

Base 4 
Base Glaze Frit 3195 65 325g

Gerstly Borate 10 50g

Wollastonite 15 75g

EPK 10 50g

100 500g

Bentonite 2 10g


Dark Brown Red Iron Oxide 10 50g

Water is added until the desired consistency is reached. This is a matter of preference and application technique. I brush my glazes on super, SUPER thick, so my glazes are usually about the consistency of Greek yogurt.

I hope this answered a few of your questions and will help get you started if you're new to glaze mixing. If you have any other questions, please feel free to comment or email me. 
Cheers! Meagan

Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Friday, July 06, 2012

Low Fire Friday - Base 3

Recently, I've been doing a lot of tests and line blends looking for a reliable, food-safe, base glaze that works well with Mason Stains. And I think I just may have found one that suits my needs!! 

Base 3 has a glossy surface, though not super crazy shiny. It's a bit semi-opaque with lower percentages of stains, and becomes opaque when higher percentages are added.


Base 3 - Cone 04
Frit 3134       75
EPK             15
Silica             10

Bentonite         2%

For color add...
The Mason Stains I've tested are:

  • #6236 - Chartreuse
  • #6026 - Lobster
  • #6379 - Robins Egg
  • #6025 - Coral Red
  • #6201 - Celadon

The test tiles pictured have line blends of these stains. A line blend is an easy way to get fairly quick results when testing colorant/stain in a glaze.

I mixed up a 100g batch of Base 3 for each of the above Mason Stains. (That's five separate 100g batches.) For each batch I started by adding 1% Mason Stain, or 1g. Then, to test how the glaze would look with 3% Mason Stain, I added 2g. Yes, only 2g because my 100g test batch already has 1g in it. For a 5% Mason Stain, I then only needed to add another 2g, and so on. It can get tricky so I always write all this down before I get started. Between each addition I brush a stripe on my test tile before moving on and adding more Stain.

I tested each Stain at 1%, 3%, 5%, 8%, 10%, 12%, 15%, 18%, and 20%. Some of the differences are too subtle to see in these images, but are more viable in person. 

This will give you a nice range of color saturation for each Stain. From these results you can decide what you like and do further testing if desired.

So, for example, if you like the color/look of the third stripe from the left on the Celadon Line Blend, then you would mix up the Base glaze with the addition of the 2% Bentonite and then 5% Mason Stain #6201 - Celadon.


I've labeled each image with the Mason Stain used and tried to test all colors on both red and white clay. (Though you can see the state of some of my test tiles is a bit rough and I'm missing red clay samples for the Lobster Stain and Chartreuse Stain.)



Lots of testing, but if you're (crazy) like me, you love this part of the process! If you've got questions, just leave a comment or shoot me an email.

Well, happy glaze testing. Meagan

Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Elise Somers commented on 04-Mar-2013 08:58 AM
Hi Meagan,
Xtra big thanxs for your posts. I would like to use Mason stains in a mat glaze? ( Like amaco velvets) So I can do multiple firings. Any recipes, ideas? Have great morning

Elise Somers
Meagan Chaney Gumpert commented on 06-Mar-2013 04:47 PM
Hi Elise,

You're looking for a base glaze that has a mat surface? One you could color by adding mason stains? I don't have one I currently use, but let me check my notebook to see if I have a recipe I could recommend trying. I'll get back to you with that ASAP!

Thanks again for checking in!
Meagan Chaney Gumpert commented on 07-Mar-2013 08:20 PM
I found this matte glaze in my notes. I haven't tested it, but it looks pretty good.

Zaedar Matte Cone 05/04

Lithium Carbonate 7
Wollastonite 25
Frit 3134 40
OM4 22
Silica/Flint 6

Good luck! I'd love to hear how it turns out!

Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Friday, June 01, 2012

Low Fire Friday - Lizard Skin Glaze

Lizard Skin - Cone 04

Magnesium Carbonate 40
Lithium Carbonate       15
Borax                          10
Gerstley Borate           20
Silica                             5
Nepheline Syenite        20

For color add...
Light golden brown/dark yellow ochre: + Rutile 5%

Lizard Skin has a sandier, crunchier texture compared to the smooth satin beads of the Low Fire Crawl Glaze. Again, apply it THICK.

With this glaze, I've had the best results using it immediately after it has been mixed. Probably from the Borax (which is water soluble and evaporates changing the composition of the glaze) and from the Neph Sye (which causes the glaze to settle like a rock making remixing difficult.)
Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Newest Wall Sculptures - Spring 2012

Is tomorrow really, June 1st? Where does the time go?

In late March I was contacted by Harris Warren Gallery in Wake Forest, NC and arrangements were quickly made for a June exhibition. Well, here we are - Goodbye Spring. Hello Summer. It's been a whirlwind, but I'm proud to say that I completed 4 new wall sculptures for my show "Variegated Disposition" opening next Friday, June 8, 2012.

Anthocyanin, earthenware, 27” x 38” x2", May 2012
Continuation, earthenware, 31" x 35" x 2", May 2012

Dissipate, earthenware, 30" x 12" x 2", May 2012
Provide, earthenware and cast glass, 27" x 15" x 2", May 2012

 In addition to these, I'll also have 4 other works on exhibit. If you're in the area, please stop by.

Oh yeah, and there's one other work in progress...
 Baby #2 (aka "Peanut") is due in September.

What an exciting Spring it's been indeed! Now onto surviving the hot Summer months of Florida!

Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Friday, May 04, 2012

Low Fire Friday - Recycled Raku (Guest Artist John Britt)

This month's Guest Artist is none other than the Glaze Guru John Britt

I took John's Basic Glaze Chemistry and Raw Materials workshop a few years ago, and let me tell you, it was AMAZING! This man is a walking glaze encyclopedia! I didn't think it was possible to learn so much information in such a short amount of time. Before I took John's class, I could follow a glaze recipe (ie measure and mix the listed ingredients) but if something went wrong, or I wanted to change something, I had NO IDEA how to proceed. It was like baking without knowing what flour, sugar and baking soda do. But after John's class, I had a much, much clearer understanding of what was happening and a great foundation for building my glaze palette.
Just a few of the Cone 04 glaze tests from John's Basic Glaze Chemistry Class

John has been a potter and teacher for over 26 years. He lives in mountains of western North Carolina although he grew up in Dayton, Ohio. John is primarily a self-taught potter who has worked and taught at universities, colleges and craft centers across the country, including the Penland School of Crafts where he served as the Clay Coordinator and then, as the Studio’s Manager.

He is the author of the “The Complete Guide to High-Fire Glaze; Glazing & Firing at Cone 10” which was published by Lark Books in 2004, was the juror for the book; “500 Bowls”, Technical Editor for “The Art and Craft of Ceramics”, and has written numerous articles for ceramics publications including: Ceramics Monthly, Ceramic Review, Studio Potter, Clay Times, New Ceramics, Ceramic Technical and The Log Book.

He is currently a studio potter in Bakersville, North Carolina and teaches glaze chemistry, throwing, glazing and firing workshops.

Here is the glaze (and fun story) that John is sharing with us today...

Recycled Raku


This is one of my favorite chairs. I formed it with the wire cut method, where you take a block of clay
and cut out the chair shape. (

Then I bisque fired the chair to cone 05. Then I rakued it with the glaze Raku Turquoise:

Raku Turquoise (From Chappell’s Book)

42.5 Frit P-25
27.4 Frit 3134
14.0 Silica
9.8 Lithium carbonate
6.3 EPK

4.5 Copper Carbonate
2.0 Bentonite
Then what happened is that the front legs broke off as I was putting it in the Raku cans to smoke it. So after about a half of an hour I open the cans and the legs were kind of stuck together and messed up a bit. But rather than throw entire chair away I separated and reglazed the legs but refired them in an electric kiln to cone 05. This made the legs a copper blue while the main chair was more turquoise and copper.

I then glued them back on and this became my favorite chair because it had the interplay of the
different glazes within the same piece.

Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Friday, April 06, 2012

Low Fire Friday - Bleeding Cake Glaze (Crunchy texture)

Another reliable glaze that works best if applied thick. Bleeding Cake is an opaque glaze with a crunchy, sandy texture.


Bleeding Cake - Cone 04

Volcanic Ash 33
Borax            20
Sand*           16   * (I use the fine grain hobby sand from Michael's or other craft store)
Grolleg          11
EPK              20


[dark blue, moss green, brick red, yellow ochre]

For color add...
Dark blue:  + Cobalt Carbonate 3%
Moss green:  + Chrome 1%
Brick red/warm brown:  + Red Iron Oxide 15%
Golden/Yellow Ochre:  + Rutile 8%
Meagan. Chaney Gumpert
Mary S. commented on 18-Jun-2013 09:43 AM
Hi Meagan,

I mixed up a batch of bleeding cake glaze, but I'm not sure I've done it right. I can't see how I can get the sand to mix in and not just collect into the bottom of the container. I did my best to "sloosh" the liquid back and forth to ensure that all my test colours got some of the grit, but it's not like usual glazes. And some of the tests are nice and thick (like red iron oxide, but there is so much of that colour) but others are much thinner.
It would be great if next time you mixed up a batch, you took pictures. But in the meantime, how do you cope with the sand? I've got some left over, and I'm going to equally mix it in with the colours. Thanks for sharing, I really love the colours and have so many ideas on what to do with it, if I can get nice results!
Meagan Chaney Gumpert commented on 18-Jun-2013 02:31 PM
Hi Mary,

Thanks for checking in! It's tough to say without seeing pictures of what you're doing, but I suspect that you haven't mixed your glaze as thick as I do if your sand is settling out. I mix my glazes, super, super thick! Similar to the consistency of frozen yogurt. It should stay on your brush when you lift it up and not all drip down. This is a photo and blog post that may help. It's of a different glaze, but it will hopefully help show how thick my glazes are. Definitely not like a typical pouring/dipping pottery glaze!

I hope this was able to help you. Please let me know how it goes! And if you have anymore questions, just holler!

Mary commented on 20-Jun-2013 10:29 PM
Well, I guess I will let the first batch dry out a bit, and test them anyway, and mix up a new batch. I guess you don't worry about sieving do you? I'll make some more but not add very much water.
thank you!
I think a trip to Florida may be in my future! Do you do courses on these glazes?
Meagan Chaney Gumpert commented on 01-Jul-2013 01:53 PM
Hey Mary,

Yep, no sieving. Hooray!

And I would definitely be open to teaching a glaze workshop in my studio. I don't have anything on the calendar at the moment, but maybe we can schedule something. I can do private workshop or small group (up to 3 people.) So, just let me know and hopefully we can work something out!

Post a Comment

Captcha Image

Previous | 1 2 3 4 5 .. 12 | Next